Anyhow, purchase it I did and straight away I plunged in and painted it up in the colours of a space marine's chapter that I had invented - the Red Lions (after my local pub) - in a mix of red and green. However, just lately I have been salivating copiously over some of the Ultramarine figures seen online and decided to re-paint the figure as an Ultramarine sergeant. I had painted up the miniatures in the past and still had a rather battered copy of Games Workshop's How to Paint Space Marines for reference.
I did leave some of the pieces in for about a week and discovered that lengthy immersion of resin in Dettol does make the resin go rather soft and flexible, which is no good for thinner parts as they can distort and pull apart, This happened to the sniper scope on the bolter, which I had to take off as a result. Nevertheless, as can be seen with some of the sturdier Dettol-fied parts here, they do come up fairly clean and leave the room smelling lemon fresh for about a week afterwards!
The one advantage with rebuilding an older kit is that all the prep has been done, so with this I could plunge straight into the priming and painting. The argument goes on as to whether black or white is best as a priming colour, but as a rule I use black as a base colour for darker hues of blue, green, brown, etc., and white or grey for reds, yellows, oranges and the lighter shades of blue and green. As I knew that this lad was going to be an Ultramarine a chapter heavily into the blues, I did the undercoat in black. Personally I never use spray paint to undercoat, I paint on Citadel Chaos Black or White Base, or their Humbrol equivalents. I've tried the pots of Citadel Black Imperial Primer, but in my opinion it's watery rubbish, I avoid it like the plague. If you clean the pieces first in warm soapy water then prime them with the colours mentioned there's no problem.
The eye lenses were first coated in Citadel Dark Angels Green. When this was dry the front half was painted with Snot Green and for more of a highlight I mixed some of the latter with a little white and yellow. The final touch was the tiny blob of light on the rear of the lens. The gold hubs near the mouth were painted in Citadel Shining Gold, Burnished Gold and a mix of these with Mithril Silver to produce an upper highlight. The ear pieces were in Boltgun Metal shaded with Nuln Oil
More to follow.