With the 2016 IPMS Telford show only a few weeks away, and with another potential bag-full of models in the offing, I decided a few weeks ago to begin work on one of the kits I bought at last years expo, namely this Pegaso Celtic Standard Bearer. The white metal kit came in eight parts in a secure, well padded box with good colour illustrations on the front. Of course, these are only guidelines, you could paint the figure as you please, but as I've stated before for the most part I'm an out-of-the-box model maker and am quite happy to paint the figure as the maker intended.
Though this is the first Pegaso figure I've ever tackled, I don't think that it will be the last as the modelling of the figure, by Pietro Balloni is excellent and assembly was a doddle. After a little tidying up – filing back a few minor mould lines and a little flash everything fitted together extremely well and only a small amount of filling was required, most notably where the cloak joins the collar; a little bit of Plasto doing the trick. The only minor problem I had during the build was the final assembly and gluing of the staff + hands/arms combination. Being all scrunched up against one shoulder and with the several parts coming in from different angles it was rather tricky to get everything together successfully, but the job was made doubly difficult by my using superglue to stick the metal parts together. We've all suffered the indignities inflicted by superglue, I'm sure – sticking bits to the wrong part, or getting a bad fitting which sets rock hard before you get a chance to correct the problem. Then there is the constant threat of an explosion of superglue over you fingers making you as dangerous as Midas, unable to touch anything. The only option when this happens is to instantly adopt a 'jazz hands' pose and take a trip to the sink. I have heard that rubbing Vaseline on your hands before using superglue is a good preventative, but not having any Vaseline to apply to see if this was indeed true, I diced with danger as normal. As it turned out, despite the difficulty, the glue cooperated and I managed to get all the parts in place before it set hard and I didn't get any glue on me at all, which must be a first.
Once fully assembled the figure was undercoated in Humbrol 61 Flesh enamel and allowed to dry overnight, or rather over several days as work intervened to keep me from my hobby. To constantly go over my painting techniques can get rather monotonous, so from now on I shall limit myself to listing the colours used at the end of the article. Suffice to say the flesh and clothing was painted in my usual fashion, the block colours being shaded with thinned Army Painter Strong Tone and occasionally highlighted with a brighter colour, for instance the figure's crimson tunic was highlighted with a mix of Citadel Gore Red and the brighter Blood Red to give it a little more brightness. One interesting feature of this figure is the black and white chequerboard pattern around the hem and sleeves of the figure's tunic. To get this how I wanted it I first painted a white band where this was to go, pencilled the pattern in and then simply painted the black squares in. There were a few slips of the hand, but it was easy enough to tidy up the mistakes. Then in places where a fold or shadow occurred I shaded the white squares with the Pale Grey wash that proved so useful during my ICM British Grenadier Guard build. I also enjoyed toying with the bronze and gold ornaments and armour on the figure and the boar standard atop the staff; Army Painter Strong Tone used neat gives bronze a nice dulling effect, which I shall use in future.
Then the stand... ah, the stand. I'm usually rubbish at doing bases, but I was determined this time to produce something decent. The figure came with a small, round metal base which was nice enough and might have sufficed on its own normally, but I wanted to make use of the last of the small bases that I had also purchased at Telford last year. So the round base would simply be used as a foundation around which I would build a bigger base out of some quick drying interior filler which I bought from Wilkos. It was a bugger of a job to squeeze the stuff out, even with two hands together pressing down on the tube as if I was giving it CPR, but I quickly pasted it into place on top of the stand. I had previously glued the metal base to the wooden stand and put masking tape around the wooden sides to keep them clean. After sculpting it into something decent I let it cure and sure enough it was quick drying and by the end of the day was pretty solid.
On its own the figure looked a little lonely on it's stand, so before doing any groundwork I cannibalised an old resin 35 mm stand which had an interesting tree bough on it. Sawing this off, I stuck it on the stand and then liberally coated everything with enamel paint. Once this was dry to the touch I did the ground with Citadel textured paints, Stirland Mud for the soil and some Lustrian Undergrowth to simulate moss on the tree bough. The bough itself was painted largely in Humbrol 110 Natural Wood dappled with Humbrol 86 and 102 and heavily coated with Army Painter Strong tone before highlighting again with Humbrol 110. The icing on the cake, though, was the grass-work, which barring some tidying up was the last thing done. In the past I have used railway scatter to simulate grass with very mixed results, but have since then discovered the joys of grass tufts, which can be bought fairly cheaply off several internet suppliers, in my case on eBay. I had previously used round grass tufts on the base of my English pikeman, but had found that more irregular shapes were also produced, so had bought a set which I now used to best effect. The mixed shapes enabled me to fit the grass tufts tightly around the feet of the figure and around the tree bough as well as covering the rest of the ground beautifully. These stick very firmly in place and though you need to use tweezers to manipulate them they are a great model maker's resource.
The masking tape was peeled away from the base and after a little titivating all was done.
Face/skin: Games Workshop/Citadel Tanned Flesh, Dwarf Flesh, Elf Flesh, Daler Rowney Flesh Tint.
Tunic: Games Workshop/Citadel Gore Red, Blood Red, Vallejo Model Colour 70.820 Off White, Humbrol 33 Black acrylic.
Trousers: Games Workshop/Citadel Ungor Flesh.
Shoes: Daler Rowney Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna.
Gold: Games Workshop/Citadel Shining Gold and Burnished Gold.
Bronze: Vallejo Model Colour 70998 Bronze.
Staff, belt and scabbard: Games Workshop/Citadel Bestial Brown.
Cloak: Humbrol 32 (Dark Grey), Humbrol 33 (Black), Games Workshop/Citadel Ultramarines Blue, Dulux Roasted Red.
Helmet: Games Workshop/Citadel Boltgun Metal and Milthril Silver.
Textured Paints: Games Workshop/Citadel Stirland Mud, Lustrian Undergrowth.
Shades: Army Painter Strong Tone, Vallejo Game Colour Wash 73.202 Pale Grey.
Varnish: Army Painter Anti Shine (non-metalic parts only).